Mews Construction Guide
The mews is your bird’s home. A well-designed mews keeps your raptor healthy, safe, and in good feather. A poor one creates endless problems.
Your mews is where your bird spends the majority of its life. A poorly designed or maintained facility directly causes health problems including bumblefoot from bad perching, aspergillosis from poor ventilation, and feather damage from rough surfaces. Predator intrusion into a substandard mews can kill your bird overnight. Investing time and resources in proper mews construction protects your bird's health, simplifies daily management, and satisfies the regulatory requirements you must meet before obtaining a falconry permit.
Updated
Regulatory Note
Your mews must meet state and federal regulations before you can get a bird. These requirements vary by state—check with your wildlife agency for exact specifications. The information here covers general best practices.
Minimum Requirements
Federal rules set performance standards rather than exact sizes, and your state may add dimensions:
- Floor space: No federal size, and only one state, Connecticut, sets a minimum (64 sq ft); elsewhere the inspector judges whether the space is adequate
- Height: High enough for the bird to jump/fly to a perch
- Perch: At least one suitable perch
- Protection: From weather and predators
- Ventilation: Adequate airflow without drafts
Note: Minimum is not optimal. Larger is almost always better.
Types of Mews
Traditional Mews
An enclosed building with a door, window, and solid walls. The bird is kept on a perch inside, usually tethered or free-lofted.
Weathering Yard
An outdoor enclosure where the bird can sun itself and bathe. Usually used in addition to an enclosed mews, not as a replacement.
Free-Loft
The bird lives untethered inside a larger enclosure, able to fly short distances. Requires more space but eliminates equipment risks.
Design Principles
1. Safe Walls and Surfaces
The interior must not damage feathers or feet:
- Smooth walls: No rough surfaces, exposed nails, or sharp edges
- Vertical slats: If using bars/slats, make them vertical (horizontal = broken feathers)
- Padding options: Carpet or AstroTurf on walls where bird might contact
2. Proper Ventilation
Good airflow is essential for respiratory health:
- Cross-ventilation: Openings on opposite sides
- No drafts: Ventilate high, perch positioned out of airflow
- Moisture control: Humidity causes aspergillosis—keep it dry
3. Light Control
Natural light cycles keep birds healthy:
- Window: At least one, ideally facing morning sun
- UV access: Direct sunlight for vitamin D synthesis
- Shade option: Bird should be able to escape direct sun if hot
4. Security
Protect your bird from predators and escape:
- Solid construction: Raccoons are persistent and clever
- Secure door: Latches that wildlife can’t open
- Double-door entry: Prevents escape when you enter (recommended)
- Hardware cloth: 1/2" welded wire for any open areas
Interior Setup
Essential Interior Elements
- PerchProper size for the species, padded if needed
- Bath panShallow container for bathing (not drinking)
- Shelf/ledgeAlternative resting spot, especially for free-loft
- Floor coveringPea gravel, sand, or easy-clean surface
Materials
Frame Options
- Wood frame: Traditional, easy to work with, insulates well
- Metal frame: Durable, predator-resistant, less maintenance
- Shed conversion: Pre-built sheds can be modified (common approach)
Wall Materials
- Plywood: Smooth, easy to clean when sealed
- FRP panels: Fiberglass reinforced—very easy to clean
- Vertical slat: Allows airflow but needs to be bird-safe spacing
Perch Considerations
The perch is where your bird spends most of its time:
- Diameter: Bird’s foot should wrap ~2/3 around
- Material: Natural branch, wrapped rope, or padded
- Position: Not too high (can’t bate hard onto floor), not too low (feels unsafe)
- Types: Ring perch, bow perch, block perch, or shelf—species dependent
- Cost: New block and bow perches listed at $99–$295 at two US falconry suppliers on September 13, 2026; many falconers build their own from wood and artificial turf.
Common Mews Mistakes
- Too small: Minimum size is not optimal size
- Poor drainage: Standing water breeds bacteria and parasites
- No shade: Overheating kills birds faster than cold
- Rough surfaces: Damaged feathers don’t grow back until molt
- Weak security: One raccoon visit can end in tragedy
Visit other falconers' mews before building your own to see what works in your climate and for your species. Build larger than the minimum requirement, as you may want additional birds later. Install a double-door entry system even if regulations do not require it, because escaped birds during feeding or cleaning are a real and preventable risk. Use smooth, washable interior surfaces that can be disinfected. Position perches so the bird cannot see passing dogs, cats, or wildlife that cause stress and bating injuries.
Budget Considerations
Oregon’s wildlife agency puts a mews at $250–$3,000, from raw or used materials you build with yourself to a ready-made one or one built for you. Where you land depends on:
- Building from scratch vs. converting existing structure
- Size and complexity
- Material quality
- Your DIY skills
A converted garden shed is often the most cost-effective approach for beginners.
Before You Build
- ✓ Check local zoning and permit requirements
- ✓ Get your state’s specific facility requirements
- ✓ Have your sponsor review your plans
- ✓ Schedule your facility inspection before building (some states)
- ✓ Consider future birds—build bigger than minimum
Clean your mews thoroughly at least weekly, removing mutes, castings, and leftover food that attract insects and harbor bacteria. Inspect the structure quarterly for gaps, loose hardware, and signs of predator probing. Treat wood surfaces annually with bird-safe sealant to prevent moisture absorption that leads to mold. Replace perch padding when it becomes compressed or worn. Check ventilation screens for blockages from debris or ice in winter. Deep-clean and disinfect the entire mews between birds or at least once per season during the annual molt period.
Expert Tips
Overbuild rather than underbuild. Your mews will need to withstand years of weather, daily cleaning, and the wear of housing a powerful bird. Use pressure-treated lumber for any ground contact, hardware cloth rather than chicken wire for ventilation panels, and exterior-grade fasteners throughout. Plan for drainage before you pour any foundation, and make the door wide enough to enter comfortably while carrying a bird on your fist.
Common Questions
The most common question about mews is how much they cost to build. Oregon’s wildlife agency puts it at $250–$3,000: the low end is raw or used materials you build with yourself, the high end a ready-made mews or one built for you. Many falconers convert existing structures like garden sheds, unused horse stalls, or sections of garage into functional mews at lower cost.
Historical Context
Purpose-built raptor housing dates to at least the medieval period, when European nobility maintained elaborate hawk houses staffed by professional falconers. The word ‘mews’ itself comes from the French ‘muer,’ meaning to moult, as these buildings originally housed hawks during their annual feather replacement. Royal mews were prestigious facilities, and the British Royal Mews in London, though now used for carriages and vehicles, preserves the name from its original function housing the sovereign’s falcons.
Common questions
How big should a falconry mews be?
Federal rules set no dimensions: the mews must be large enough for easy access and for the bird to fly or bate without injury. Only one state, Connecticut, sets a minimum floor area (64 square feet); elsewhere the inspector judges the space. Larger is always better, with good ventilation and room to bate without hitting the walls.
What materials should I use to build a mews?
Common materials include plywood or OSB sheathing over a wood frame, with smooth interior walls to protect feathers. Avoid rough lumber, chicken wire (which damages feathers), and materials that retain moisture. The floor should be easy to clean — concrete, gravel, or smooth wood.
Does a mews need windows?
Yes, natural light and ventilation are essential. Windows should have vertical bars (not horizontal, which can damage tail feathers) spaced to prevent escape while allowing airflow. Many states require both a window and a separate ventilation opening. A south-facing window provides beneficial sunlight.